The Multipurpose Baby Diaper Bag
Quilting ruler or carpenter's square (for measuring and cutting)
1 1/4 yard pre-quilted fabric (for the outside)
1 1/4 yard cotton flannel (for the lining)
3/8" wide paper-backed fusible web
30" molded, separating zipper
Basting tape
INSTRUCTIONS:
Preshrink both fabrics by washing and drying them according to the way they will need to be cared for. In this case, you only want to be buying fabrics that can be easily thrown into the washer and dryer.
Now you're ready to start!
We'll begin with the outer layer (the pre-quilted fabric).
With the quilting ruler or carpenter's square, mark a perfect 31" square.
This will be the tote.
Now, mark a 13" by 27" rectangle - this will be the outside pocket.
Finally, mark two 4" by 15" rectangles - these will be the handles.
Cut out the pieces.
WARNING:
DON'T use the selvage edges as one of the sides! It is so tightly woven that it will most likely shrink and distort the shape of the tote, even if it looks flat.
Take the pieces for the square and the pocket, and using them as patterns, cut identical pieces out of the lining material. Take the two pieces for the pocket.
Place the lining on the pre-quilted pocket, right sides together.
Pin the lining to the pocket, inserting the pins perpendicular to the edges, so that the heads of the pins are on the outside, and leaving a 6" opening along one side (i.e., unpinned).
Set your machine on a straight stitch of 10-12 stitches per inch.
Position the pocket so that the opening is just behind the presser foot, and the cut edges are aligned to the 1/2" seam guide. The bulk of the material should be to the left of the machine.
Backstitch to the opening and stop.
Begin to stitch forward, all the while making sure that the cut edges follow the 1/2" seam guide.
Stop stitching at 1/2" from the corner, making sure that the needle is still stuck in the fabric.
Lift the presser foot and turn the material to face the next corner.
In this manner, stitch all the way around the pocket until you get to the last pin before the opening.
Backstitch and remove the fabric from the machine.
HINT:
To make your life easier, you can mark the 1/2" from the corners with a dot before you start sewing. This way, you'll know exactly where to stop sewing.
Now you need to trim the corner seam allowances. Do this on a diagonal. This ensures nice, sharp corners when you turn your
fabric around to the right side.
Press the seams flat to set the stitching lines.To make your life easier, you can mark the 1/2" from the corners with a dot before you start sewing. This way, you'll know exactly where to stop sewing.
At the opening, press the seam allowances open, turn them back 1/2" and press.
Cut a 6" pinch of the fusible web.
At the opening in the LINING, place it over the seam allowance, just inside the folded edge.
Press to fuse it to the fabric (follow manufacturer's instructions for this).
Through the opening, turn the pocket right side out. Using a point turner, or the wrong end of a seam ripper, gently push the corners out (from the inside of the pocket). This will ensure perfect corners.
Remove the backing from the fusible web and align the folded sides of the opening.
From the lining side, press over the opening to fuse it closed.
Press remaining edges.
You just formed the basis for the pocket! Now we're going to attach it to the tote.
Mark the centers of two opposite sides of the tote square.
Now, mark the centers of the two short ends of the pocket.
HINT:
Don't take out these markings, because you're going to need them later when you attach the handles!
Center the pocket over the tote (right sides up). The pocket ends should be 2 1/2" from the ends of the tote.Don't take out these markings, because you're going to need them later when you attach the handles!
Pin the pocket, going down the long edges, so that the pins are perpendicular to the edges of the pocket.
You are now going to topstitch the pocket onto the tote.
Insert fabric into the machine.
Align the right side of the presser foot with the side of the pocket, and the back of the foot with the end of the pocket. Backstitch just to the pocket end. Stitch forward to the opposite end of the pocket and backstitch. Repeat on the opposite side of the pocket.
Remove fabric from the machine, and lay it out on a flat surface.
Now you're going to divide the pocket into two, and sew a division on one side for bottles.
Using an air-erasable marking pen or tailor's chalk, mark two lines across the width of the pocket: One line at an inch to the right of the center, and the other an inch to the left.
Stitch on the marked lines - don't forget to backstitch at each end!
On the pocket side of your choice, mark a line down the center.
Stitch along the line.
Now take a handle piece.
Fold it in half lengthwise and press.
Open the fold.
Fold the long sides in so that they're aligned with the center crease, and press again.
Now refold in half lengthwise so that the raw edges are encased.
Pin the layers and repeat for second handle.
Topstitch each handle at 1/4" from each long side.
You're ready to attach the handles!
Go to the center of one side of the tote (this is where those markings are going to come in handy again!).
Pin the ends of one handle to the edge of the tote above the pocket so that the inner edges are placed 3" from the center. Repeat on the other side, with the second handle.
Stitch across the ends of each handle within the 1/2" seam allowance.
It's zipper time!
On the right side of the zipper, run a strip of basting tape along both outer edges and remove the paper backing (zipper should be closed).
Place the zipper (still closed) facedown on one of the handle-less sides, with the zipper stops (top and bottom) positioned at 1/2" from each end of the tote.
Attach the zipper foot to your machine, and adjust the needle to the left side.
Set the machine for long, straight stitches, and baste the zipper to the fabric at 3/8 " from the edge.
Now stick the other zipper tape edge to the other side of the tote in the same way.
Separate the zipper halves, and repeat basting for second side.
You're almost finished!
Now you're going to line the tote.
Lay the tote on the lining, encasing the zipper and handles, and making sure that all the edges are aligned.
Pin the tote over the lining, leaving an opening on one side, between the handles.
Place the tote under the zipper foot, with one handle under the foot (outer layer on top).
Stitch a 1/2" seam all around the tote, pivoting at the corners and backstitching at each end of the opening (just like you did with the pocket lining).
Trim corners (just like before).
Turn tote to the right side, and close the opening with the fusible web as you did with the pocket.
Remove the zipper foot and attach the regular presser foot.
Topstitch all around the tote, at 1/4" from the edge.
Zip your tote down the center, pack up and go! CLOSURES
Although I wouldn't recommend closing the top of the tote, as you don't want snaps or buttons to pose a hazard on a play-mat, you might want to close the pockets so that small items like pacifiers don't fall out. The easiest way to do this is with Velcro. It comes in both sew-on and stick-on versions. If you use the stick on, you should still sew a few hand stitches around the edge, as the backing tends to wear out with time. You can also use sew-in snaps - if you sew them carefully, they won't show on the outside. They also pose no safety risk, because the pocket will always be on the underside of the play- mat.