Beautiful Toddler Quilts
1 1/4 yard printed fabric of your choice (P)
1 yard solid fabric of your choice (S), to match or provide contrast to P.
1 1/2 yards fabric for backing (45" width). I recommend either another cotton or a flannel. Obviously, the color should match the quilt top.
Batting or flannel filling
Thread to match or blend
Invisible thread (if desired, for finishing the quilt)
A rotary cutter and mat are very helpful, but not absolutely necessary. If you don't have one, see if you can borrow one from a friend. INSTRUCTIONS (numbered for ease)
1. Cut 4 strips across the width of fabric P, with each strip being 3.5 " wide. In other words, each strip should measure 3.5"x 42-44". (This is for the border). Set aside.
2. Cut four strips from both P and S. Each strip should be 6.5"x fabric width (6.5" x 42-44"). You will have a total of eight strips.
3. Take these four strips of P fabric (the ones from step 2). Cut them into a total of 21 squares, each measuring 6.5" by 6.5".
4. Do the same for the four strips of S fabric. You will now have a total of 42 squares measuring 6.5" x 6.5".
5. Take one square each of P and S fabric. Pin together on one side and sew, using a scant ¼" seam allowance.
6. Repeat for all remaining squares so that you have 21 pairs of fabric squares sewn together.
7. Press all the seams open.
8. Take three pairs and arrange them so that the P and S fabrics alternate, forming a row of six squares.
9. Pin together and sew (1/4" seam allowance).
10. Repeat with all remaining pairs, so that you have seven rows of six alternating squares each. 11. Press all seams open.
12. Now you're going to sew the rows together, in pairs. Take two rows and line them up so that the P and S squares create a checkerboard effect:
| s | p | s | p | s | p |
| p | s | p | s | p | s |
14. Sew rows together (1/4" seam allowance).
15. Repeat for remaining rows. You will have three rows and one odd row out.
16. Press all seams open.
17. Now match and pin all three pairs of rows and the one odd row. Sew together for a total of seven rows for the completed quilt top. Press well.
18. Trim the edges of the quilt top so that they're even.
19. Remember those 3.5" inch strips from step number one? Go get them.
20. With right sides together, pin these four strips to form one long strip. Sew together.
21. Press seams open. This is the border for your quilt.
22. With right sides together, pin the border to the top and bottom borders of the quilt top. Sew ( 1/4" seam allowance).
23. Trim ends of border even with the sides, and press the seams.
24. Repeat for each side of the quilt. Now all four sides are bordered.
Now, you're ready to make your "quilt sandwich"! Before you start, make sure that the surface (either table or floor) is clean.
25. Lay the top of the quilt right side up. Now, lay the backing right side down. Lay the filling on top of the backing.
26. With your ¼" seam allowance, sew the quilt all the way around three sides. On the fourth side, leave an opening of about 12 inches.
27. Turn the quilt inside out. If necessary, "fluff" the quilt so that the filling is evenly distributed throughout the quilt.
You're ready to finish your quilt now! There are a few methods for doing this. If you are an experienced quilter, quilt however your imagination likes. The only method I wouldn't use is hand-tying – it could pose a safety hazard for a babies or even toddlers who still like to stuff anything and everything into their mouths. If you're a first time or beginning quilter, I would recommend machine-quilting using the "stitch in the ditch" method. This method means that you simply quilt between the squares, on the seam lines. It's really very easy. Here's how. The easiest way to deal with the bulk of the quilt is to roll it in on both sides, leaving an exposed section in the center. Roll both ends of the quilt towards the center, leaving a 12" section exposed. Secure the rolls with safety pins, or with bicycle clips if you have any (you know, those clips they sell to secure the bottom of your pants so that they don't get caught in the chain). Now you can sew. When you finish one exposed section, unroll another and continue quilting. 1. Attach an even-feed foot to your sewing machine. If you don't have one, either borrow or buy one. Don't forget to take the manual from your sewing machine alone with you – the salesperson needs to know which foot matches your machine!
2. Thread the machine as usual. If you want the stitching to be invisible, so use invisible thread (clear nylon monofilament) as your top thread.
3. Set the stitch length for 6-10 stitches per inch.
4. Place the unrolled area of your quilt into the machine and sew one stitch.
5. Lift the presser foot, with the needle up. Pull the tail of the top thread so that the bobbin tail comes up through the hole in the stitch you just sewed.
6. Lower the presser foot; sew a couple of stitches and then backstitch to secure the thread.
7. Continue stitching "in the ditch", using the squares to guide you. If you have to turn a corner, lower the needle into the quilt, lift the presser foot and turn the fabric. Lower the presser foot again, and continue stitching in the new direction.
HINT:
WHENEVER you have to start/stop stitching, always backstitch to secure the thread – otherwise, your quilt could unravel.
Once you've finished, remove your quilt from the machine. Snip any and all hanging threads, and enjoy your masterpiece!
WHENEVER you have to start/stop stitching, always backstitch to secure the thread – otherwise, your quilt could unravel.
